Some picture in Chiapas

The Gringa who learned about the Zapatistas says...

Soy Mujer con Dignidad Rabia!
I am a woman with dignified rage!

I couldn't spend more than a few hours inside the Caracol without this sense of empowerment, groundedness and conviction filling me. The Zapatistas, a name that may bring concern, or fear to some because they cover their face in an effort to be treated equally are humble family men, women, children. They come to this place, the Caracol, to work on human powered projects that are creating a new world- a place that is filled with beautiful murals and depictions of people from a revolutionary history, quotes about dignified rage, and the democracy necessary in education written boldly on the walls for students to see on their way to class, to eat, to sleep every day.

And life is normal here- except when those international students come and do some funny, things, like yoga-- or running to the outhouse to vomit!!
There is tortilla making and weaving and outhouse washing and floor scrubbing and football and basketball playing, getting up early to go to school. What is not "normal" for Mexico that happens inside this Caracol is the type of education and the harmony of true lived out democracy of this place that has taken many years to create.

The students are not taught by teachers in an authoritarian manner, but classes are facilitated and everyone is treated equally. Boys and girls, men and women are respected equally. We saw a lot of physical affection between boys, cutting each others hair, arms wrapped around each other on the way to class, so natural and friendly, but we internationals pointed it out to each other in wonderment.

We got the opportunity to discuss the philosophy of the Zapatistas in our classes and we had many questions, especially from those who had not started to read John Ross's book The War Against Oblivion: the Zapatista Chronicles. We talked about the history of Mexico and how it has been written and about those who give alternative histories and where to find them. And how the Zapatista movement fits into that history. And we watched documentaries made on how the military responded to the Zapatistas creating the Caracol and how the Zapatistas responded to the tanks and trucks and military back in 1995.

Another world takes time to build, a world built on socio-political convictions and consensus based decision making. They would say the Caracol, like a the shape of the snail shell is always growing in a circle including ideas of peace and justice for all from all corners of the world.

Zapatistas making an impression by their:
Sixth Declaration of the Selva Lacandona (http://www.serazln-altos.org/eng/sixth.html) Declaration of intention and reasoning for what they do.

Compelling view of the reality of the destructive nature of neo-liberalism and how it has effected not only the indigenous of Chiapas but other groups around the world.

Alternative view on what development means, sustainable, local, taking care of the earth.

Response to a government that has done nothing but treat them as sub-human. This response was planned for years and focused on taking down municipal level government buildings, but created international attention.

No longer trusting a government who has deceived them over and over- they were empowered and emboldened to create their own government, their own schools, their own clinics, their own economy, their own food system... not everything all at once but slowly.... like a snail.. their name reminds them that building another world takes time and goes slowly and if you put an obstacle in front of a snail the snail will just slowly move around it and find an alternative route... this is what they are doing what they are living here, now in the mountains of Chiapas, in the mist, in the damp cold.

Inside a Snail called: resistance and rebellion for humanity

I have been putting off writing about my time with the Zapatistas, because there was a lot to think about. Two posts ago I mentioned a Caracol, which is Castellano (spanish) for snail. There are five Caracols in Chiapas and maybe in the world that are Zapatista, their invention afterall. I was at Caracol II Oventic, Chiapas. This is the only Caracol that has a Language Center where internationals can come and stay overnight and learn Castellano or Tzotzil, a local mayan language. I stayed there two weeks for Castellano.

Less than a week in Mexico and I found I was standing outside a gate high in the mountains of Chiapas. Behind the gate was a woman and two small children.. I could tell she was Zapatista right away because the lower part of her face was covered with a bandana that I had seen in the pictures on the website and on t-shirts and books. Her eyes smiled at me. I stepped closer and greeted her and her children in Spanish. I don't remember what she said but I ended up giving her my passport and a letter of accredidation I had received from the Mexican Solidarity Network. I was to wait while she walked quickly to a building I discovered much later (by reading the sign outside) was the Security building. She returned shortly and motioned that I could come in and should go to that building where my passport had remained.

Feeling a bit nervous I entered the building where three masked men stood and one sat behind a simple wooden table. On walls were taped up amaturish drawings and depictions of Che Guevara. I was asked very pointed questions about where I was from, my name, occupation, what organization I was with and how long I planned to stay. In my typical fashion I decided to be honest and say I was not sure how long if I was going to stay a week or two weeks, because I had just heard some bad stories about the place from an English guy I met for a brief moment in San Cristobal, that is was cold, and no books to read, no place to walk, not enough food. My indecision was not received with calm patience. "It is not that cold here now. One or two weeks?" The vigilante demanded. "I can't say." I remained wishy washy. "I will put one." he said with exasperation. I could hardly believe I had created such a rough start. I thought I was reasonable to try for a week. I was then to check in with the Good Government located at another building not far down the hill. I was led there by the security guy. They knocked and since they were busy with another group I sat outside on the bench to wait. At this point I thought that I was getting a special chance to interview them or hear about what they do and how they are formed, etc. I didn't realize that this was a normal part of the process.

As I sat outside the building I looked around. There were children playing on the steep concrete road that led straight down a hill. There were small wooden plank buildings on each side of the road. I noticed the security guys standing in the doorway of one, keeping an eye on me and on the gate where I had entered where the road exited to the main highway. All of the buildings were painted with murals and painted letters words in the local language and in Spanish indicated what their function was. There were women's cooperatives and I could glimpse in the doorways someone weaving. In general people seemed shy and reserved, students walked by, later I found out returning to school for the week.

I was encouraged though by one thing, the sound of laughter coming from inside the good government building. Lots of laughter. After about 30 minutes of waiting the group left and I was welcomed inside. I was asked to sit down. There were eight people there men women, some younger, some older, their eyes were smiling and their faces covered. I smiled back and took out my notebook and pen ready to write notes. They asked me to sign in my name, country, how long I was to stay and profession. I presented them the letter from the MSN group giving their approval that I could study there, that I was anti- capitalist enough and understood the Zapatista stance and outlook on the world. Within the letter I had not realized but there were the dates that I was to stay- two weeks, they noted that down. They looked everything over and filled out a half sheet of paper, with permission to stay two weeks stamped it with an ink stamp and handed it to me and said- you may go to the school it is down the hill. I quickly got my things together and thanked them and left.

I began my way down the hill it turned into a grassy path on a small ridge I saw a basketball court on one side and a group of students playing soccer on the other and in front of me a group of buildings painted with beautiful murals. There was an older man coming my way. He greeted me and asked me if I was looking for the teacher. I said well not really, just the school. He said he would walk with me. He said that they just send you down the hill with no further instructions.. very true I thought, how nice of him! He was staying for several weeks in Caracol II researching in the library. The day was sunny and not cold. I was introduced to someone who helped with the school for internationals. She showed me a bed, wooden planks, there were other beds that looked like they were in use and that had thick mats on them.. I found an unused centimeter thick mat folded it in half and threw my sleeping bag on top. I went back outside and found my new friend who was waiting for me, he asked if I wanted to get something to eat back at the top of the hill in the Che Guevara Cafe. So we went. He was able to tell me a little about the Caracol and I mostly talked about myself.

Several more students arrived after I ate. They were from the USA as well.

So what is a Caracol you may still be asking. I made the mistake of calling it a community, but a community is distinguished from a Caracol. A Caracol is a space where the projects of the Zapatista communities at large come together. Womens cooperatives have their offices here, the coffee cooperative has an office. There are large gathering places built for events or meetings, each Caracol has a school some just primary others secondary as well. There is a place for the Good Government to meet. There is security 24/7. There is a clinic as well, with two ambulances. Everyone working here, in the school, in the clinic, in the government, in the security, has a home somewhere else, has a community somewhere far or near and they have been elected to these positions by their communities. They are not paid for their work they are not called teachers, volunteers, or doctors, they are called "promotores" in english maybe called facilitators. This applies mostly in the schools where they don't want to give the impression of a typical authoritarian classroom where teachers dominate. They say they are all equal. That the promotores empower students to participate, question and learn. And they learn about Zapatista movement of course, they also all know how to play basketball really well. I haven't seen anyone play basketball with such focus and passion, not even professionals. But then again professionals don't exist in a Caracol

So that is inside the Snail..

Leaving San Cristobal

I struggle to find quiet time to reflect on the last four weeks here and tonight I leave San Cristobal of Chiapas for the bustling city of Mexico, a 12 hour overnight bus. Big and busy though it is, I hope to find more quiet time to really reflect on my time here, while there. The last weeks have been intense and the tiny bit I enter into my journal each day is not enough to describe everything. The little I have summarized in the last blog entry I find lacking. On this trip I found so much more than I expected, was affirmed in more ways than I ever imagined and was confronted with ideas and challenges I did not forsee. Life- I love it.

I will miss this place and the people. One physical obstacle which may effect my trip today is the road blocks all over Mexico, there will be protests and all major highways will be blocked.. they are protesting actions of the federal government. Not sure what specifically. I may be staying another day though. ALthough they expect to be clear by the time I leave, people have to eat, etc.

One thing I look forward to when I get back to the States to Grand Rapids, it going to see John Ross speak, he is an author of books about Mexico one I have started to read is about the history of the Zapatista movement.
He is speaking two days after I return- check it out if you are around! You can look on my facebook page to find the invite.
A little boring post I apologize. Here are some exciting things I have done and what I appreciate about what I have found in San Cristobal.

Permaculture activity- actually ran into someone I knew in El Salvador doing permaculture who had come here to teach a course-
Indigenous rights awarness
Land reform-
Alternative trade schools for youth
Non- profit-Documentary making- showing
Anti- capitalist politics- la otra campañia
Bicycle campaing, safety, rights of cyclists, etc
Adobe house building workshop
Organic farming- local food production
Womens rights movement via many manners- theater, art, textiles, political actions,
all these things seem to work together, like most people who are interested in womens rights know something about the other topics or at least something.
People are empowered and are creating a culture of empowerment for those who traditionally have been opressed..
More soon!!

Con Patas Arriba

The title of this blog entry "con patas arriba" has two meanings for me right now. Literally it means with paws up. So I have taken a few days to put my feet up in San Cristobal de las Casas, Chiapas after two weeks in Oventic, Chiapas, where the other meaning comes in- like everything is turned on its head.

Not completely, it was exactly what I was looking for in fact so this is a good thing. But it makes me think my idea of investigating community intentional or otherwise is not as cool or original as I thought. There are amazing people who have lived in the communities here for years with just the intention of living and learning for themselves the ways of mayan descendents of Chiapas, who later were asked to write books and histories of their experiences. I was in a Caracol, which is different than a community for barely two weeks! Lame! But really awesome at the same time. As you can tell I have been having some internal conflicts.

Being in Mexico has a different feeling than any other place I have been. There are so many tourists here, specifically in San Cristobal that many people who live here see the tourists as a way to make a dollar, which makes sense. I mean the poverty of the common people has been created by the countries we come from, subsidized imports of corn, the infiltration of coca-cola, the capitalistic clutches on all resources in general. We are confronted with it everywhere we turn, capitalism and the poverty it creates side by side. Also many of the businesses that are doing really well by way of the tourist industry are owned by expatriates or people who live in the US or Europe. It creates conflict on an economic level. People are still opressed and the opressor is still the US and Europe1
I have had the privilage to meet some local people who involved in activism and permaculture, which is very exciting. I hope to investigate these projects further. But right now I will be taking a few days to do some touristy things. There is a bike tour to a community I hope to do tomorrow.

One really cool thing happened on Saturday when I was having an especially conflicted day.. I was staying at an Urban Ashram called Casa Plena, and the woman in my room was telling me that there was an organic farmers market next door. I left around 9 am and saw no market activity. When I returned at 11 AM the once empty courtyard was full of life and color of vegetables greens, kale, carrots, cilantro, peas,, cool weather crops.! there was also baked goods. I have also found natural yogurt for sale - all the ameneties are here in the this foward thinking town.. I look forward to my time here, but may have to head to the warmth of the beach for a few days, nest week.

Will post again soon!